![]() If you want a little more kick, connect a powered subwoofer to the SUB OUT port. Lighten the load on your computers CPU by connecting directly to YU2s built-in DAC via a USB cable for a fully digital, high-quality audio connection. Use the AUX input with the included Kanto 3.5mm cable to connect any device with a headphone jack to your YU2. The 3 composite drivers provide distortion-free mid-range and bass tones - surprising performance for such a small speaker. YU2 features 3/4 silk dome tweeters to deliver clear crisp highs. If deep bass is your thing, simply connect a subwoofer to the SUB OUT port and revel in pure low-end bliss. A specially tuned bass-port on the rear extends the low end while keeping airflow away from your active workspace. 3 composite drivers ensure a distortion-free bass and midrange, while the 3/4 silk dome tweeters effortlessly produce scintillating highs. With its built-in soundcard, it can stream high-quality audio directly from your computers USB port, or connect directly to any 3.5mm AUX jack for maximum input flexibility. Best part of the build is we stuffed RGB’s into the front plastic part of the case so it kinda catches people off guard at LANs to see some dirty old pc with RGB’s.Proudly designed in Canada, the YU2 desktop mini-monitor will make you believe that big sound can come in a small package. I did have doubts that a 120mm rad would be to small to OC a 2700k, but it stays cool with a 5GHz overclock. After wiring everything up and cable management the build went smooth. Didn’t realize till then how long it takes to repin and sleeve a whole PSU (Never will do that again). Then went on to a project of depinning all the PSU wires cutting the wires to length and sleeving with some AlphaCord Colonial Blue and Black. We wanted to keep the dirt and oil stains on the panels for kind of a patina look. After getting everything mocked and plumbed for the watercooling we stripped the case sandblasted the inside. Fitting the pump/res was also chore having about 2mm of clearance between the reservoir and GPUs. We ended up having to mount a 120mm rad to the side of the case and cut two big square holes, one where the motherboard mounts and to the back of the side panel so the air could get out. We opted to go for a straight tubes and 90 degree fittings loop for the CPU. After mocking everything up the motherboard and graphics cards fit well but we really didn’t have a lot of space to work with to fit a radiator big enough to cool two 970’s and a 2700k. Cut everything out of the case we didn’t need like drive bays and cut cable routing holes into the case for the PSU wires. Fast forward to the build, we had to drill and tap all new mounts to fit an ATX board. After a good alcohol bath, the parts looked brand new. Same day we hit the road drove two hours to some random craigslist deal where we thought the PC was clean and decent, to showing up to some PC covered in cat dander with a strong smell of ammonia but it booted and worked fine so we scooped it for a deal. We hit craigslist and came upon some decent 2700k build in an old NZXT Phantom case that was priced cheap it had the same Gigabyte GTX 970 that we had kicking around so the thought of SLI came into our head instantly. My friend stumbled upon the case (some old Dell we think) at his work in a pile of scrap, the thing was covered in dust and oil it was a perfect candidate for what we always had in mind to build a scrapyard/craigslist sleeper with older budget parts and pretty it up with hardline watercooling to show it off at LANS. Help options - 5 groups of items - 17 total selections PC Parts options - 10 groups of items - 47 total selectionsĮlectronics options - 12 groups of items - 61 total selectionsĪccessories options - 10 groups of items - 50 total selections
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